an Culleretes is not just a place to eat. It is a direct trip to the Barcelona of the 18th century. In the heart of the Raval, this restaurant founded in 1786 is the oldest in the city and the second oldest in Spain, only behind Casa Botín in Madrid.
To walk through its door is to cross a threshold in time. The walls speak, the portraits observe and the aromas remind us that Catalan cuisine is still alive here as it was more than two centuries ago.
Can Culleretes an icon born out of a window
The history of Can Culleretes starts with a working woman, the concierge of a convent near Sant Jaume square. From a window she offered homemade cottage cheese, almond milk and snacks to the passers-by who went for a walk after crossing the wall.
The success was such that he left the porter’s lodge to open a small restaurant on Quintana Street. There he began to forge a reputation that, centuries later, continues to attract diners from all over the world.
The name Can Culleretes has two versions. One says that it was the first restaurant in Barcelona to use metal spoons. Another, more picturesque, tells that the waiters continually asked for more spoons to serve desserts and shouted: “Nenes, culleretes”.
Can Culleretes under the vision of Tito Regás
In 1890, the business passed into the hands of Tito Regás, great-grandfather of businessman Oriol Regás. Tito not only modernized the premises, but also gave it a unique aesthetic identity. He commissioned murals by Francisco Tey, ceramics by Xavier Nogués and large lamps that are still part of the ambience today.
His proposal was clear: typical Catalan dishes at a good price. This gave birth to the famous Cenas de Cinco Pesetas, which brought traditional cuisine to all budgets.
At that time, Can Culleretes was full of politicians, intellectuals, artists and curious people. So much so that it inspired the sainete Un bateig a Can Culleretes, premiered in 1919 at the Romea Theater.
COYA Barcelona and its unique blend of gastronomy, art and culture
Between war and the recovery of the original spirit
The Civil War changed everything. Regás had to flee and the business fell into decline under the management of the Hoteliers Guild. The essence was diluted and the prestige gained in decades began to fade.
The turning point came when Francesc Agut and his wife Sussi Manubens bought Can Culleretes. They understood that the secret was to return to the roots: honest cuisine, traditional dishes and a close treatment.
They recovered recipes such as Catalan style pork with raisins and pine nuts, shank with chanterelles(jarret amb rovellons), Catalan cream or cottage cheese with honey(mel i mató). Word of mouth made the restaurant recover its fame.
A space that preserves the essence of Can Culleretes
Today Can Culleretes is divided into four rooms that combine a modernist air with original elements from the 18th century. Ceramic murals, antique lamps, photographs and souvenirs fill the walls.
Among the images there are dedications of actors, musicians and personalities who have passed through its tables. There are also original tiles that have survived the passage of time as witnesses of its history.
To sit down to eat here is to immerse yourself in a place where every detail counts for something: from the texture of the walls to the shine of the cutlery.
A menu faithful to the Catalan tradition
The cuisine of Can Culleretes is a tribute to the traditional Catalan gastronomy. The escudella i carn d’olla occupies a special place, along with traditional cannelloni and wild boar civet.
The ingredients are fresh, seasonal and local. The Agut Manubens family has always maintained the commitment to offer quality products without losing the essence of the original recipes.
Here you will not find fusions or risky experiments. Each recipe is cooked as it has always been cooked, with calm and respect for the traditional recipe book.
An atmosphere that embraces all diners
The charm of Can Culleretes is not only in its food. It is also in its mix of customers. Tourists looking for an authentic experience share the dining room with locals who have been coming here for decades.
The bustle of the dining room is reminiscent of the Barcelona of yesteryear, when meals were long, after-dinner conversations were lively and there was always someone ready to tell a good story.
The staff, many with years of experience in the restaurant, welcomes diners with closeness and naturalness. Here you feel at home, even if it is the first time you enter.
Three generations caring for Can Culleretes
Today the restaurant is in the hands of Montse and Alicia Agut, daughters of Francesc and Sussi, together with their son-in-law Bernat and four of their grandchildren. Three generations have managed to keep the essence alive and, at the same time, adapt to the new times.
Their current success is based on something very simple: respecting tradition without falling into empty nostalgia. They have kept the menu faithful to its origins, but have managed to organize the business to continue attracting new generations of customers.
Can Culleretes a living chapter of the city
Can Culleretes is part of the gastronomic and cultural heritage of Barcelona. It is not just a place to eat, it is a capsule of history that continues to beat.
Famous personalities and anonymous neighbors, entire families and curious travelers have passed through its tables. Many return again and again, not only for the food, but for the feeling of being part of a tradition that has survived wars, crises and changing times.
A must-see in Barcelona
Those who travel to Barcelona in search of authentic Catalan cuisine can’t miss a reservation at Can Culleretes. It is the opportunity to try recipes that have been on the menu for more than two centuries, served in an environment that preserves the soul of the city.
If you are looking for a place to eat quickly and leave, this is not your place. Can Culleretes is designed to enjoy without haste, let yourself be enveloped by its atmosphere and feel that, for a while, you are part of its history.
Because, in the end, this restaurant not only feeds the stomach. Can Culleretes feeds the collective memory of Barcelona, and that is something that few places can say.
Where is Can Culleretes Restaurant?
Carrer d’en Quintana, 5, Ciutat Vella, 08002 Barcelona, Spain
